So I was just wondering what is, in your opinion the best Resin printer to get that just works like how Bambu printers in the FDM space just seem to work.

Or

Just what resin printer would you recommend purchasing?

I have a mars 3 and looking to upgrade to maybe a Saturn 4 ultra because I want a bigger build plate and auto leveling seems nice so it’s one less step I need to do.

  • Honytawk@lemmy.zip
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    1 month ago

    Resin printing is a breeze compared to FDM.

    It only has one motorised axis that needs configuring, afterwards it just works. There are so many less variables that you can get a decent result with even the cheapest of printers without much fiddling.

    So I’d focus more on the features and the size of the buildplate than on reliability.

  • roofuskit@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    What you’re asking for is going to be way overpriced. Heygears is likely the pro-sumer brand you’re looking for.

      • roofuskit@lemmy.world
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        1 month ago

        Yeah, but it’s the only hold your hand experience for resin printing that isn’t even more expensive. I honestly think the hold your hand experience is unnecessary for resin printing. It’s already way easier than FDM.

        Stick with Elegoo, they’re great.

        • ClydapusGotwald@lemmy.worldOP
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          1 month ago

          FDM seems easier tbh. I just slice and throw it on the printer I have a Creality k1 atm and it just goes. I don’t need to worry much about anything. I’d say resin has a bit more to dial in. And clean up is another thing. But I agree probably sticking with elegoo.

  • AnarchoSnowPlow@midwest.social
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    1 month ago

    I haven’t bought one in a year or two, but I don’t think there’s an equivalent.

    I recommend something like a Bambu for people who want “a printer to supplement their hobby, not be their hobby.”

    Resin printing is incredibly fucking cool, don’t get me wrong, but it’s also like a finicky thing, between leveling (if you have an older Saturn like I do), resin temperature, vat film replacement, model cleaning, safe ventilation, and on and on.

    If you wanna “set it and forget it” resin is not gonna be that. Probably ever, but definitely in its current form. You’re just gonna have to do a lot more post processing than you will with fdm.

    All that said, if you’re fine with it basically being a hobby that can supplement your other hobbies go for it. I didn’t do fdm till after I did resin, and the detail and print quality you’ll get out of a even an older tuned resin system is in a different universe than what you’ll get out of any modern fdm system. But you’re gonna pay for it in extra effort and various pita that do not exist with fdm.

    (I can rec a Saturn for sure, I have a 2 and I love that thing.)

  • I Cast Fist@programming.dev
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    1 month ago

    Personally, I’d recommend any Elegoo printer.

    As you already have a Mars 3, upgrading to a Saturn 4 is a good step, though I can’t vouch for its auto plate leveling. As others mentioned, the thing with resin is that it’s toxic, smelly and the fumes from curing can also be problematic. Personally, I’d recommend getting water-based resins, since cleaning them is way, way easier and safer than having to deal with isopropyl alcohol, acetone or anything else. Dunk on a bucket of water, then on another and you’re done, just dry and cure.

    For cleaning the buckets, wait for the stuff to sink to the bottom (I prefer leaving at least 1 day), cure and throw away. Or leave it to evaporate naturally on small plastic cups.

    • ClydapusGotwald@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 month ago

      Yeah I use water resin already. And I also have a dryer vent setup that takes the fumes and vents them outside. I like my mars 3 but I seem to have to tinker a lot with it. Might just be me always thinking my plate isn’t level though.

      • I Cast Fist@programming.dev
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        1 month ago

        Unless your prints are failing often, you can leave the plate as is. I got a Creality Halot Mage (Saturn clone) and I have to re-level that thing after every 2 prints. The difference is enough to make several prints fail if I use the right side of the screen, as the base layers won’t even adhere to the plate. Part of the problem might be the FEP I’m using, which seems too “sticky”