Because they don’t want you to host things at your house, even though that’s perfectly fine from a technical standpoint. They might want to sell you a “business” line for this, or they just don’t want the traffic (since at least in my area, traffic is always included in any home Internet connection).
I know this post is quite a few days old already, but I still wanted to add a bit to the discussion.
The printers you list vary wildly. Both in terms of design goals (“what is the printer meant to do well”) and assembly requirement (from “ready to print in 10 minutes” to “you build this for like a week until something moves”). A Qidi is basically ready to go, a Prusa will take some time to put together (how much depends on if you got it as a kit or fully assembled). A Voron 2.4 takes about a week to build just for the printer, not including ERCF and/or tool changer, let alone tuning of said ERCF/tool changer.
Also there’s the Troodon, which is a Formbot prebuilt that is closer to a real Voron 2.4 than a Sovol SV08, just to add to your list. It has a stock stealthburner tool head compared to the proprietary thing that Sovol uses, for example.
I’ve recently built a Voron 2.4r2 (Formbot kit) and loved it, but it was like my 4th printer (and a previous printer was a self-sourced scratch build). So do you have experience with 3d printers, and building them or tinkering with them? I would probably not recommend building one otherwise, but it’s not impossible either, just expect a relatively steep learning curve if you have no prior experience.
Do you want to mostly just print in colors but same filament ype, or do you want to mainly have multi-material capabilities? So do you need 5+, or would 2 colors with the option to expand work for you?
If the Voron is a real option for you, I’d highly recommend it. Just make sure you’re going with a can-bus based build/kit (like Formbot). These days I wouldn’t go with an ERCF due to the complexity of building it and then setting it up, as tuning is supposedly a bit of a process. Also you mentioned that the amount of waste during multi-color prints is a real factor for you, and that puts single-nozzle systems inherently at a disadvantage as you just have to purge the hotend on every change. So I would suggest a tool changing system, and I would either start with that (but just 2 tool heads), or add it as the first project. Specifically, I would suggest using the Tapchanger as a modern system. Frankly adding a tool head like that is much less effort than building an ERCF, but also just adds 1 filament each and not like 9 at once.
Yea imagine this was a video of soldiers of some state murdering people. Same argument. You still agree? Also a video of one (or more) stabbings.
Spotify can actually do that, but it’s a bit cumbersome: as the local songs to a playlist on a PC. Then set that playlist to be downloaded on the phone, and it will download the files directly from the PC as long as they are on the same network.
I’m sure the official slicer will have a good profile, maybe the speed for outer walls accidentally got changed to 1 mm/s? I don’t usually use Cura (that is what their slicer is based on), but I think to change speeds at all you need to hit “show advanced” or something? So if you didn’t change anything, that is even less likely.
If it’s real pauses (print head stops completely), I have even less ideas what that could be.
When I get back home I can try to see what I get with your settings, probably just resetting everything should also work for you though.
Can you give us your basic info:
and just posta screenshot of the sliced model that the slicer should show you, makes it much easier to recognize trivial errors like wrong orientation.
A good rule of thumb is to just always use 0.2mm layers unless you have a very good reason not to.
That being said, this doesn’t explain your truly nonsensical time prediction. It would just be double, since you have twice the layers to print. Like someone said, a few hours would be reasonable, certainly less than a day even with very fine detail.
Yes, and in that state it’s still better than any other smart watch I’ve tried. By a lot, too. Which is honestly just sad, but here we are…
I’m still using my pebble. Works mostly fine still.
Maybe she worked in the shipping department or a larger company, and took the money for sending everything for herself and just made her own stamps/labels instead?
Or she just sold them openly, like others suggested.
You know you can turn off the music, right? Just play your own or none at all.
What low voltage though? Unless it’s 5V like USB (non-PD and non-QC), they should and need to be incompatible.
Literally never heard of it, which is probably the reason and kinda makes it a good call?
Kinda expected Texas, but that works too
In what can only be described as “perfect timing”, the 3d printing channel teaching tech uploaded a video about just this problem literally a day ago: https://youtu.be/vl0FT339jfc
Worked fine for me on a mobile client (relay)
Knifes are different though, as that is a different stainless steel alloy. I don’t remember the specifics, but something about higher carbon content so it can be hardened? This is why you shouldn’t put knifes into a dishwasher, they don’t like the salt and will get pitted over time.
Nevertheless, no “normal” stainless is actually immune to rust or general corrosion anyway. It also depends on the environment (ask boat folks about this one), specifically if oxygen can get to it. And salt just makes everything 100x worse, too.
Probably “ports of call” on PC. Still haven’t found an actual modern version of it. There were some half assed attempts in recent years, all with such huge flaws that they still haven’t managed to be considered “playable”.
Garmin are atrocious compared to hybrid watches or the legendary pebble. Had one for like a week before I sent it back, there was so much wrong with it.
One small addendum/correction: I meant Stealth changer (which is based on Tap changer), but got the names confused.