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Cake day: June 14th, 2023

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  • It sounds like bed adhesion might have got worse, perhaps you have touched the print surface with your fingers while removing prints? You could try removing the plate and washing it with warm water and soap. Some people use IPA but if you do then you need to make sure you really wipe it clean before it evaporates, otherwise the dissolved fats will stay on the bed. If your bed has some kind of anti-stick coating I think there’s also a risk that you damage if you use stronger solvents.

    As for warping in general it could be an indication that your flow rate is exceeding your melting capacity. If you have an all metal hotend you could try printing at higher temp, if not then try reducing print speed instead.


  • ffhein@lemmy.worldto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBad Oozing on SV06
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    2 months ago

    Ahh, I thought you meant you had a 0.2mm nozzle, but now I see you probably meant layer height.

    Moisture absorbtion is rarely a problem with PLA, but hopefully dehydration won’t hurt, as long as you don’t accidentally overheat it and it deforms. I’ve left rolls of PLA out in the open for 6 months without noticing any deterioration. Both your filaments used to print fine, and then the oozing spontaneously started with both of them?

    2mm retraction should be more than enough for a direct drive extruder.


  • ffhein@lemmy.worldto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBad Oozing on SV06
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    2 months ago

    What filament and other slicer settings? Could be too hot. Could be retraction settings. Did the oozing start when you switched nozzles? If it’s a cheap Amazon nozzle it might be faulty and have a different diameter than advertised. Did you follow the correct procedure with hot tightening when switching nozzles? If not, you might have got molten filament in between the nozzle and the heat break.





  • For LLMs it entirely depends on what size models you want to use and how fast you want it to run. Since there’s diminishing returns to increasing model sizes, i.e. a 14B model isn’t twice as good as a 7B model, the best bang for the buck will be achieved with the smallest model you think has acceptable quality. And if you think generation speeds of around 1 token/second are acceptable, you’ll probably get more value for money using partial offloading.

    If your answer is “I don’t know what models I want to run” then a second-hand RTX3090 is probably your best bet. If you want to run larger models, building a rig with multiple (used) RTX3090 is probably still the cheapest way to do it.












  • Based on the comments here, it sounds like you and others agree that the majority of people who responded to your initial post didn’t do anything wrong, but you thought the overall experience was negative due to a few mean comments, right? So with this meme post, you portray the entire community as a bloodthirsty mob who got angry at you for asking a question. Do you see how this could be considered “not nice” to the people who wrote helpful comments, those who downvoted the negative comments, and people who didn’t even see your post but are still included in the ergo mech community here? While those who wrote mean comments to your post should consider being kinder to newbies, perhaps you ought to consider being kinder to everybody else.