I run 16 Bit Virtual Studios. You can find more reviews from me on YouTube youtube.com/@16bitvirtual or other social media @16bitvirtual, and we sell our 3D Printed stuff on 16bitstore.com
While its annoying, its so easy to unsubscribe that I see it as a fair price for a free game.
I have the old physical copy. The DRM on it is awful, get the GOG copy.
I know, I just hope that they don’t point to it and say “this is the reason we don’t make 2D Zelda games” like they did with Chibi Robo and that god awful 3DS game, or Star Fox and that god awful Wii U game.
We do, but they aren’t that good of a deal, especially since you can get the same discount… if not more, if you buy used. And you can sell the game when you are done rather than being stuck with digital.
That said, outside of Nintendo, who rarely if ever discount their games, most games on modern systems get heavily discounted months if not a year after they come out. You are a fool if you buy the latest Ubisoft Game new since it’s usually $15-$30 before it’s been on-sale for a year. Even Sony first party IP, I got most of them for $10-$20 a pop new or digital, since I bought in at the tail end of the PS4 generation.
Been waiting for a new 2d Zelda game since link awakening was rereleased. So far it looks interesting. The only issue I can see with this game is that it to is going to be $79.99 CAD and from what I’ve seen it’s so not going to be worth that. Hoping for a $49.99 or $59.99 CAD price tag, but this is Nintendo.
Right, lots of suggestions for Bambu and Prusa and rightfully so. But their prices are high and while they are worth it, they wouldn’t be what I’d suggest for a first time printer.
The Ender 3 is what I’d suggest, though not the V1. The S1 or the v3 and good starting points for being in budget and having some modern features.
This isn’t like the mid 2010’s where it was hit or miss and the printers will have a slight chance of burning your house down. Hictop anyone? But these days even a $200 printer is good enough to start printing.
That said software is going to be your biggest pain point.
For the slicer make sure its compatible with PrusaSlicr or Cura. Preferability the former. This makes the models to print, and some cheep third party slicers makes their own with questionable quality and support.
For modeling, you have some options. Blender if you are looking to design 3d shapes like clay. Fusion360 is a cheap and free (while limited) solution for parametric cad design. With TinkerCAD is a good in between. But like Photoshop is to gimp, Fusion 360 is to FreeCAD and it may be worth learning how FreeCAD works since its an extremely flexible tool.
TL:DR Ender 3 V3/S1, Prusa Slicer, Cura, Blender, TinkerCAD, Fusion360, FreeCAD and you should be too to start printing and making brackets.
$500 for a Krabby Patty?
With cheese Mr. Squidward, with cheese.
While I understand your argument. I have my own philosophy for what is retro in terms of games.
For me I don’t look at the system but the games. And for games it about 10-15 years after they were first released.
Enough time that kids can be born and never see this game until now. While I wouldn’t call Pokemon Sun/Moon retro just yet. The 3ds/2ds has games on it that I would consider it retro.
Its been over half a decade since Nintendo stopped making games for it, and even longer since people cared about it.
The only time I will argue something isn’t retro is when its still on the store shelf and not in the discount bin.
If you want me to make you feel old the hardware was released in 2013, making it over 10 years old this year.
You can do this with 10 but not 11. Tested on both a VM and hardware.
I use Linux because of the 3D desktop cube. Who doesn’t love the cube!
To clarify, this is what my e-reader case looks like
What this replaces is the side without the e-reader. As for overheating, never been an issue since the e-reader is exposed to the air and the heat goes through the screen.
I too do not understand social media. The best I get is it’s about people shouting into a void and hoping someone else heard you to interact with it, by repeating it, liking it, or shouting back at you.
Hashtags are the only way to organize these posts and you need to add them or no one else will hear your shouts into the void.
Wow a rare time both consumer and retailers are in agreement… oh. They’re not talking about themselves.
Yes, thank you Public Domain
Yeah, I made these because my original case broke (Nova 3 color not kobo). I sell them on Etsy, though sadly since it’s so labour intensive to stitch it ends up costing as much as the eReader. Trying to make it more upgradeable and user serviceable to better justify the price, but I’m still testing them.
As for the desk, it’s my deterrent to keep eBay scam artists from selling my designs with my photos. I have fancy professional photos I can use if I want.
Like this one
The Keyboard is from EVGA but it was on clearance when I got it so I don’t think they sell it anymore.
I have the iPad Pro with an M1 chip in it. And I never once thought… This needed more power, or this needed to be thinner.
I need a headphone jack, and I need better software support from third party devs (without the apple tax).
The only exciting news is the Pencil Pro, but even then it’s a niche use case. Plus them dropping the price of the existing iPad.
This could’ve been an email.
Haven’t been buying from the local super store for a while now, however I have stopped buying from Shoppers.
No Pillow… yet, but yeah I’ve tried to look for replacement, but she’s a Gigabyte Clevo so finding parts isn’t easy.
I could achieve the same effect by making the arms thicker. Though I am thinking of printing the screw caps in TPU to see if I can make it stiffer that way.
Trying to keep the parts the same as the main thing this belongs too. M2 threaded inserts and 5mm screws. So not a lot of flexibility when it comes to thickness. That said, as a MK2 I’d probably make it 2mm thick rather than 1.2mm since that’s my goto size for stiffness.